In my previous post, I detailed some of the mistakes of selecting my first CNC router. In this post, I’m going to explain how I will fix those mistakes.
The MillRight M3 did its job. Not by working, but by kicking my ass enough times that I finally learned what not to do. I didn’t need a cheap belt-driven toy. I needed a more robust machine. And no amount of wishful thinking, bargain hunting, or YouTube hacks was ever going to turn the M3 into something it wasn’t built to be.
I wasted time. I wasted money. I wasted good wood and even better ideas. And every borked up project was a reminder that you can’t half-ass something and expect full-ass results. Time to burn it down and build it back right.
The Upcoming Build: A Lesson in Overkill
The upcoming build of my new CNC router won’t be perfect, but it’s going to be mine. It’ll be based on lessons paid for in blood, sweat, broken bits, and a pile of expensive firewood. It won’t be built for Instagram likes. It won’t have flashy anodized parts just for the hell of it. It’ll be built to work, not to win a beauty pageant.
Belt drives? Dead to me. MDF frames? Nope. Undersized motors? Never again.
This time, it’s screws, aluminum, and overkill where it matters. Built slow, built smart, and built to make things happen.
What Went Wrong (and What I’m Fixing)
It took me a while to face the truth: the M3, as it was, wasn’t the machine I needed to make what I wanted. Sure, I could’ve spent more time tweaking and tuning it, but I didn’t want to keep trying to force it into something it wasn’t designed to be. I’m not here for half-ass solutions. I want something that works and is dependable.
One of the biggest lessons I’ve learned; don’t buy a machine based on price alone. It’ll cost you in the long run. The M3 was affordable, but it wasn’t built for the kind of work I wanted to do. For that, I needed something sturdier, more reliable, and capable of actually getting results without endless tinkering.
The Build: What’s Changing
The new CNC machine I’m designing is going to be much more robust. First off, it’s going to use screws or ball screws, no belts! These things are more reliable and precise, and they don’t have the wear-and-tear issues I ran into with the M3.
The frame? It’s getting a serious upgrade. No more MDF. This time, I’m using extruded aluminum, which will give me a solid, stable structure while still being cost-effective. I’ve learned that rigidity is key, and extruded aluminum will give me that without breaking the bank.
The motors will be a step-up as well. I’m going with more powerful, better-quality motors that can handle the load of more demanding projects. The M3’s undersized motors were one of the biggest sources of frustration for me, so I won’t make that mistake again.
Why This Build Will Be Different
I’ve learned the hard way that you can’t just slap together a machine and hope it works. The process requires careful planning, understanding the limitations of what you’re working with, and taking the time to get it right.
The new build will be slower, yes, but it will be smarter. I’m not trying to rush through the process or make something just to post it online. This is about getting the results I want and need, without the constant fear that the machine will fail halfway through a project.
The goal now is simple: to make something that’s solid, dependable, and built for the long haul. I’m not in this to impress anyone. I’m in this to create. To make real, usable pieces … without the struggle. The kind of CNC machine that can take on all kinds of projects, from complex carvings to detailed signs, and still come through without a hitch.
Conclusion
If you made it this far, you’re probably done with the highlight-reel builds too. Good. Let’s figure some sh*@ out together.